070404 - Where are you?

Salta and around, ARG - Okay, Argentina is a very, very biiiig country. I think, looking at it from the other side of the planet it might seem smaller. Questions were raised why I'm travelling so "slowly". But north to south Argentina extends over more than 3,600kms and east to west 1,400kms. Travelling through this country - on the bus - takes more than 4 days! And it assembles pretty much 5 continents in flora and fauna. Reason why I am still here. To give a glimse of my route so far...

General observations

While travelling one gets to experience and see some wild, interesting and unbelievable stuff. As you keep your eyes open one or the other of the below mentioned things might have also happend to you:

- There's no Israeli kid aged between 21 to 23 in Israel. They are ALL here in Southamerica.

- Offices never open on time, but they sure close 5 minutes early.

- You hand your dirty laundry in to get washed and you get it back perfumed -- but just as dirty, it seems.

- Asking when the next bus comes, you'll always here "soon".

- Bus times schedules are guidelines and are not to be taken seriously, at least not for inner urban transportation.

- If you're asking for directions people won't ever say "Sorry, I don't know.", but'll send you off to any random direction.

- If you think the bus is already full, there's always more room for at least another 5 persons.

- 7 peso wine from Argentina tastes better than any 10 euro bottle back home.

- As a foreigner you will always pay more.

070403 - As much as we can

Cafayate, ARG - "Sorry, you guys are going to the ruins of Quilmes?" First thing I asked when I got of the bus in Amaichá del Valle. Indeed, Sergio and Chelo where headed the same direction. We teamed up, organized a cab and got ourselves a ride to the ruins and on to Cafayate.
The ruins of Quilmes are in a pretty amazing setting. Built into a mountain side the tribe withstood the Inca and then the Spanish domination before being "tried out", which means some Spanish general cut off their water supplies, so eventually they had to surrender. Of the 2,500members that had to march from there to Buenos Aires only some 400 arrived...

Cafayate is a beautiful town. When we got there the superfriendly host "sold" us pretty much all the trips in a way we hardly could turn down. We had about an hour to eat before setting out to a hike along the beautiful Rio Colorado. It was nice... but 15people? Come on, you feel like on a school's field trip.
Next morning we took advantage of a free "wine and cheese"-tour. Kinda strange to have a buzz already at 11 o'clock in the morning. Oh well...
In the afternoon we went on another excursion through the beautiful Quebrada de las Conchas. But 40 some people... it seemed to be getting more every trip. For the evening we had planned to take the bus from some random place to Salta. Until somebody screamed: "Wo is going to Salta? The Bus is coming!!!" As I am sprinting down from the Garganta del Diablo I see the bus driving by... Bummer! But luckily there was another one coming shortly after with plenty of room... ;o)

070401 - Not much happening

Tucuman and Tafi del Valle, ARG - Tucumán is probably the biggest city in the north from Argentina. But it didn't appeal to me at all. I found it to be dirty and highly unpleasant. Apart from the city square and the Casa Histórica, where the country's declaration of independence was drawn up. Maybe I was just there at a bad time...
The ride to Tafí del Valle was beautiful. Undescribeable. Kickback-roads through dense green forests. Tafí itself is run-over by tourists. Which pretty much describes it...

070331 - Stuck, we are stuck!

La Rioja, ARG - So after we spend all day on some little bus vans we still had to go some way to our next destination, Tucuman, capital of Tucuman province. From where we were (at the crossroad from Talampaya NP) another 8hours. It was already 6pm. We were told, that there would be no bus coming by before 9. So we waited...
The bus came with the usual 45mins delay. By then, it was impossible to get a bus from Patquía to Chilcecito where I planned to go. But plans are only a guideline --- time to adjust. I am going to La Rioja.
When we got there, it was madness. People everywhere. No space to move. Even turning around with a backpack on became a challenge. We found out that Friday was a day off, plus Semana Santa (Easter Week) was due. Take a guess! .... Yeah, no more place on no bus to Tucuman. Not at midnight, nor 1:30am, 2am or 3am. By 2am we decided to check into a hotel and come back the next day.
The guy at the counter told us that he requested back-up, meaning bigger buses. But sadly the more-passenger buses we not yet uploaded nor soon to be onto the system. Which option? Come back at 8am when he reopens. Then there should be a chance to get a ticket for the 3pm bus. Yes, the ones at 8am, 10:30am and at 13:30...? All booked out!
When we got back to the bus terminal, at 9:30am, there were no more tickets for the 3pm bus! Only at 11:30om... well, what should we do? Easy... Buy the tickets and somehow make the most out of our day in La Rioja.
It surprised me. I found it to be a pleasant town with a nice center square and some nice buildings. But no all-you-can-eat buffet! ;o)

070330 - Being a "Japanese tourists"

Valle de la Luna and Talampaya National Park, ARG - The "Moon Valley" is actually called Ischigualasto National Park, received its nickname though when discovered by some foreign geologists in the 60ies or 70ies, I believe (don't nail me on neither nationality nor exact year; I'd have to look that up myself). By then, they had already known about the surface of the moon. And indeed, it seems alike.
Nowadays, there's no "walking" allowed in the park. People are giving a tour driving around in their own cars, lead by a park rangers and are only allowed to get off at certain points. This way park authorities want to ensure that no damages are made. Just feels dumb driving around in a car all the time...
And if this wouldn't be enough, same procedures are handled in Talampaya NP. Well, they give you the option of renting a bike. But the beach-like sand doesn't make it really worthwile nor do you get to appreciate the whole thing.

To me, I liked Talampaya a lot more. These rockformation, some 150meters straight from the ground; red, bright color! Amazing!! Just check it out in the photoalbum!

070329 - Getting to Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)

Well, after we came back from our we didn't even go out, even though it was a bloody Saturday. But you know, in the life of a backpacker it seems to be always weekend. And you certainly don't need an excuse to be partying any day in the week.
Sunday evening. I was despertly trying to safe money. Minding my own business, Taylor, a guy I met in Ushuaia shows up asking my if I'd be hungry: "Heck, yes!" Never say no to a free meal! Delicious. Later on Jeff joint us and there we were --- pounding one bottle of wine after another, as it seemed. As one thing let to another it turns out, that it was somebody else's birthday in the hostel. So by around 1am everybody was having a good time --- time to set off to legendary Wilkenny. My memories of coming hime were pretty fainted, but I sure know that all those wine bottles gave me a good headache when I woke up at 3 in the afternoon. Yet one more day of rest...

Next day I set off to Mendoza around 4pm, got there at 9am and jumped on the next bus to San Juan, another 4hour busride. A bit worn out I got there. Similar in style to Mendoza, though it lacks its particular charme. Nothing really to do -- but to leave, next thing in the morning. Heading to San Augustin del Valle Fertil.

070324 - "There are new scratches in the paint."

7-Lakes-Route, ARG - We didn't find anybody to go with us on this trip. But heck, this way it's only two people with opinions on where to stop. Should make it a lot easier. ;o)

The trip is a dream. We set off at about 9:30am and return 11hours later. Totally happy. But tired. And since I have signed the rental papers it is my job to bring back the car.

I get up early and drive back. The guy walks around. And suddenly tells me that we left new scratches on the paint. What? I think I just didn't hear right. My heart drops. The fee can be up to 2,000pesos (500eur) for this kind of damage. Maybe that's his usual routine of squeezing out an extra bit of money from the tourists. I start an argument and convince him to send the car to the car wash. All the "scratches" are basically from mud staints.

When I come back 2hours later he apologizes deeply. Miracously all "scratches" have disappeared. What a relief...

070317 - "My lid is about to fly off!"

Bariloche, ARG - I am back! Back again for more. This time for some hiking. Jeff (my hiking buddy from TDP) is already in town and had been waiting for my arrival. Together we want to do a couple of hikes and the 7-Lakes-Route. As we don't want to loose any time we had out soon, but before I need to get The Princess.

Ever since hiking in TDP I had deep regrets for having lost my Thermarest in Panama, back in the old days. The sleeping pads you can rent here in Argentina are not really any good. Insolation = Zero. So when temperature drops you freeze. That's how it was in TDP. Since Jeff had a superb sleeping pad, down-filled, 7cm thick and also a sleeping bag with a comfort zone up to -20degrees he was always sweating like a pig at night. Solution? I gave him my bad insolation sleeping pad and in exchange I got to sleep on The Queen, as we started to call his pad. Neither in Ushuaia nor in Puerto Madryn I was able to find a Thermarest. My hopes relied on Bariloche as a trekking mekka, therefore hopefully providing proper gear. As it turns out, they have a lot of nice stuff placed in the shopping windows, but not really anything good and useful. After looking around town I managed to get hold of a NIKKO insolation pad. As good as a Thermarest, but cheaper. My Queen!

The next few days on the Nahuel Huapi Traverse were a blessing. Absolutely beautiful weather. Perfect reflection in lakes. Astounishing 360-views from the summits. Mind-blowing hike.

On the last day we decided to walk out to Colonia Suiza instead of going to Refugio Lopez. Why? We still needed to find people to go with us on the 7-Lakes-Route. Jeff and I are cheap. Neither one of us was willing to pay a lot in order to do this gorgeous trip.

It's about 12kms out to town. As we love to sleep in we kinda set off late and really have to hurry the last couple of kms. The bus is scheduled to leave at noon. We make it to town about 15mins late. At the bus stop we meet a dutch lady who's also waiting for the bus. Because of TISA (?! *smile*) my hopes are still up. And indeed, we see a bus coming down the street. It's going to Bariloche. It's just that we are standing on the wrong side! Why? The woman assured us that the bus come back. I find it kinda strange. Last time I was in Colonia Suiza the stop was a bit more down the way. And the bus definetly didn't turn around. And yes... The bus does not come back! We find out and are soooo angry!!!

Our options? Either wait for the next bus from Colonia Suiza to Bariloche - in 5hours! Or find a way out to the crossroad from where more frequent buses leave. But that's 5kms away. We hike our way out of the village and have about another 4kms walk ahead of us. No luck waving down cars. And then the strangest thing happens: The dutch woman passes us in a car. Apparently she got picked up by an old couple. I am about to explode! Oooohhhhh.......

070313 - "Do you want to share a taxi?"

Puerto Madryn, ARG - It was time to board a plane and head north. Instead of taking the bus and sitting on it for the next 28hours I opted for a 4-hour flight to Puerto Madryn. And it only cost about 150pesos more. Well-worth the extra money.

After arriving at the airport I discovered that there was no public transport to town. So I hooked up with a dutch guy in order to share a cab. In walks Rafi, asking us "Do you want to share a taxi?". - And the magic crew was born. Together, Mark (from Holland), Rafi (from Israel) and I stuck togehter for the next four days and went on to dive with sea lions, to see orcas on Peninsula Valdez and to drive to the biggest penguin colony outside of the Antarctica.

070306 - At the end of the world

Ushuaia, ARG - Back in my favorite country I hooked up with Allistair, an English guy I had met in Calafate and Torres del Paine. Travelling on more or less the same route you kinda meet the same people over and over again. Same with Al; I had first seen him in Refugio Piedras del Fraile. But back then we barely exchanged words as he was travelling with a girl.

I cannot really explain it, but Ushuaia had been on my favorite-destination-list for more than four years. And here I am. Sometimes I have to pinch myself. So far, the whole trip has been amazing. Everything has been so great. I am still healthy (except for my knees *smile*). My family back home is doing great. I couldn't possibly ask for more. I just stand there, enjoy being able to travel and appreciate every second.

I wanted to do some scubadiving here. But turned out it was too expensive. And they required experience of diving with dry-suites. The sea is kinda cold... ;o) Still I was able to see some of the amazing countryside as Al and I did a few hike in the region.

We also did a boat tour. Yet another one. Down by the docks all the tour operators have a little hut. And you see their salesman running around trying to get you on their excursion. Well, we also listened to a few of them. We didn't want to go on one of the big catemarans and opted instead for a trip on a small sail boat. As the guy was explaining us the itinary I could away squeezing out a smile or two. He was really trying to make an effort selling this tour. First going on about having sold it already to "five beautiful french girls" (to boat can host up to 8 people), then he kept on talking about how the first hour of the trip is very, very important because "this is the longest part of the tour; it is here where we form a group." What?? To what do you want me to sign up here?!? As I couldn't hold my smile he stopped talking and kicked us out. "You are not welcome here! No!" Okay. Tired of wandering around we finally booked a tour with the Tres Marias. I had read an article about the captain of the boat. The guy who discovered the Titanic of Southamerica, the Monte Cervantes, which sank close to Ushuaia. The tour was en route, time winding down, and me and Al wondering wether we'd ever make it to the famous lighthouse. It was then, when El Capitan said: "Lighthouse? We are anti-lighthouse!!" So, this is why we never got to see the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse. ;o)

070225 - Is it hailing?

Torres del Paine, CHL - We finally set of for TDP sliding through town. Somehow, the driver of the company who picked us up in a minibus seemed to be stressed out. Already. At 7am in the morning. We were speeding through town at about 80km/h. And as we are approaching a red light I start wondering if we gonna run right over it or not. And then... he slams on the brakes. The bus breaks out. And we slide sideways onto the junction... After this little incident he slows down a bit. And soon we head out of town.

We had planned to do the big circuit. A bit more than 100kms. And we start out easy. The sun is not really shining, but the weather isn't too bad. As it would turn out later, this was our best day. We arrive at our first campsite, set up the tent and head up to Los Torres. But the clouds are just too low and we never get a clear shot at them.

The next day starts off cold. Rain. And hail. We get back to the base of Hosteria Los Torres. Soaking wet. As the forecast says the weather is going to stay like this over the next few days which in consequence would mean that crossing the path on the other side becomes impossible we decide to camp here and wait up. The next morning we take the concious decision of dropping The Circuit and go for The W instead.

Over the next days our decision has proven to be right as we meet more and more people who had to come back from the path as it was closed by the rangers and they couldn't cross it.

Our stay in the park is characterized by rain, wind, sun, hail... Basically, all four seasons. And when we were lucky, sometimes we had them all in one day. Damn you, Torres del Paine. ;o) Nonetheless, it was an unforgetable experience. I just have to come back for some better weather.

We finished The W and continued on a bit further to get closer to Glaciar Grey. Absolutely mindblowing. This was the closest I have ever been to a glaciar. Looking directly down on it. It seemed endless.

Lessons learned on the hike:

- The weather is just unpredictable.

- Follow the motto "From free camp to free camp!" and you safe a lot of money. Well, those days can be long.

- There are some crazy people out there: guys who carry two backpacks; their own on the back and on the front the one of their girlfriend, while she is not carrying anything!!

Back in Puerto Natales we celebrated our "accomplishment" by partying hard in the local nightclub. After a day's rest I tried my luck hitchhiking to Ushuaia but could only manage to get to Punta Arenas, about fours hours from P.N. ;o)

070223 - "Where am I?"

Puerto Natales, CHL - At the hostel in El Calafate we where a bunch of lonesome travellers from all around the world, Hungary, Holland, Germany, Poland... Everybody was to leave the next morning. Somehow we ended up drinking as we cooked together and appreciated the really nice set up of the hostel America del Sur. - And got drunk. Well, some people know when to stop. Others don't. So, a bunch of us went to the only open place in town. At a decent time. 2am. As we got in, the bar was empty. Bummer! But that waitress assured us that people would be coming. And they came. I don't know much what happened after. All I can remember is that is was promo-night for Fernet-Cola, and somehow we got our hands on a bunch of coupons...

Timejump. 7:30am. I am in my bed. Mhh... What time? Ops... I manage to pack my stuff. Pay my bills at the front desk. Jump into a cab to the bus station. Climbed into my seat. And fall asleep all happy with myself.

Hours laters, in a bit of disgust, I wake up. The bus is parked in the middle of nowhere. I learn that the bus driver forgot to renew his drivers licence. Therefore he cannot cross the border. Apparently there was a big discussion before we left Calafate, 2 hours later than scheduled. And with two cops onboard. Now we swop busses with the bus which just came from Chile. The papers of that driver's must be alright. Okay... TISA! "This-Is-SouthAmerica"

With a delay of three hours we arrive at Puerto Natales.

Here I am supposed to meet up with Jeff. We hooked up about a month back when I posted an ad on the lonelyplanet-site looking for a hiking buddy. Luckily, he has all the good camping gear and I can throw my crappy tent over board. ;o)

070220 - On the gringo trail

El Calafate, ARG - Next stop en route was El Calafate, a four hour drive from El Chalten, the gateway to the big glaciars. There's not really much more to do here than go to the glaciars. So I went. Hey, I mean, I really wanted them to see. Especially Glaciar Perito Moreno, one of the rare glaciars that is still growing. And it was impressive. But even more was the boat tour I did the next day. You spend all day on a boat with a bunch of people, but I got to meet three really nice ones from Poland who happened to stay at the same hostel.
As the boat got closer to the first one we sighted big chunks of icebergs floating in the lake. As high as three storey buildings. Maybe taller. And don't forget, what you see is only 10 percent. Getting close to the glaciars give you a really good impression of how big they are. Some of them stood 110meters tall, rising from the lake.

How is a glaciar being formed? Well, there is the so-called accumulation centre. A snowflakes fall from the sky, gets compressed in this accumulation centre, and as the snow keeps on falling, the "ice" keeps rainsing. Out initial snowflake is then pushed to the side, and eventually, after apprx. 10,000 years falls as part of a big chunk with a lot of noise into the water. *roaahh*

070213 - Waiting for perfect weather

El Chalten, ARG - Along the way from Esquel to El Chalten I met an Italian and a Spanish guy. We all where accommodated in different places after arrival but had decided to go for Cerro Torre in the morning.

El Chalten is the youngest town in all of Argentina. After some argumentation about the borderline between Argentina and Chile it was founded in 1985 as an exclamation mark to the Argentine standpoint. Just recently, over a 5-year span the village has literall exploded, from 48inhabitants in 1996 to around 1,500 in 2006. Still, they are mayorly outmanned by the tourists coming to town day after day after day. A stopp in the increasing numbers is not even close. And sustainable town development doesn't really seem to be an issue as houses pop-up like mushrooms all over the place. Still, the town holds its charme. And even I stayed longer than expected, doing on all the treks around as well as a bike tour to Lago Desierto.

What I enjoyed most? The landscape. And probably camping at Refugio Piedra del Fraile, even though I frooze my butt off in my supermarket tent. But there was so little people that I was more than glad that I had come. On all the other treks you are just never alone. Constantly, there's a flow of people. But at Piedra del Fraile, and on the trek to Glaciar Piedras Blancas I was all by myself. Beautiful.

Of course, the hikes to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy are amazing. But you just feel like an ant in a big antz-moutain.

070211 - Ruta 40

Ruta 40, ARG - Finally another dream come true. Driving on Ruta 40. Up to Perito Moreno it is still paved road. But beyond there, all the way south to El Chalten, it's one long ride on gravel. The landscape is so facinating. Undescribable. Emptiness. Nothingsness. For miles and miles to come.

Close to Perito Moreno we went on a side trip to the Cueva de las Manos ("Cave of the Hands") - some very, very old stone paintings. Located in a fertile valley and protected by the overhanging caves, the paintings had been drawn a few thousands of years ago.

After that stop it was all driving and hoping to get to El Chalten earlier than expected. The bus had no air-conditioning, due to the gravel it was impossible to see a movie because the disc would be skipping all the time, and my I-pod just went flat. ;o)

070129 - A new tent... from the supermarket

Esquel, ARG - I arrived in Esquel with the purpose of climbing. I had read somewhere that close by there are some fantastic mountains and as it worked out, the guy who runs the hostel is also a climber offering tours. But well, it didn't work out as planned... The day I arrived he had left on a trip for the week. Regrouping! What next? National Park Los Alercers. I had heard many good things about it. And since it is kinda outta the regular gringo-route there where not as many tourists. Of course, I was still in high season and many Argentines come to this park. But that's fine. ;o)

Camping gear.. hmm... Let's see: I had a really good sleeping back but that was about it. I kinda new that there was more trekking coming up along the way as I was planning do hike in El Chalten and Torres del Paine. So I was in the market for a new or used, but at least pretty damn good tent. As it happens, the hostel owner had one of his old tent for sale... but had taken it with him on the trip. Bummer! But there was another tent available. 30 pesos daily rental fee. I don't know... I just don't know. I asked for some thinking time and went shopping at La Anonima, the local Wal-Mart. As I wander down the halls my eyes catch a tent. "For Sale", it says with big letters. 60 pesos!!! Deal! Well, pretty crappy tent, as anyone can imagine. But the weather was supposed to be stable for the next days: sunshine and no rain. Perfect. I just had gotten myself a new tent. The rest of the stuff I borrowed from Laura, the hostel owners's wife (for a minor rental fee, of course). And of I went.

It was sooo beautiful. Almost no people. Perfect campgrouds. The hikes? Well, the one to Lago Krueger sure got me working. Pretty steep climbs. A lot of up and down. And then there was this maillin with all these bugs... I caught up to an Argentine couple who told me they pretty much crossed this part running. Unbareable, these insects. And I had no repellent. The hike is said to be done in 2 days. The first one 8hours, the next an easy 4 hour hike. Didn't really feel like splitting it up. Getting closer to the end yet still not seeing it I questioned my decisionmaking. But when I arrived after 7.5 hours a stroke of happiness and relief flushed my body. Set up camp and had one of the longest showers of my life.

The next morning as I was having breakfast and enjoying the beautiful quietness I hear some noise coming from the forest. Next thing I know a tree falls down, barely 15meters away from me, knocking over a bunch of other trees on its way down. Ufff... lucky me.

I stayed for the day and crossed over to the other side of the lake by boat. Pretty expensive ride but definetly worth it. From there I hitched a ride back to Futalaufquen.

Next morning, another perfect day, I climbed up to Cerro Dedal. All the way to the top. I was almost being blown off by the strong winds and my legs started freezing as I packed light and went only in shorts, but I made it down safely.

Then there was only one more thing to do: see one of the oldest trees around. Unfortunately, for this you have to take a 80 pesos boat tour. Somebody told me it was nice. As it turns out, it was pretty boring. Wouldn't really reommend it to anybody, unless you don't mind walking in the forest with 50 other strangers. No, no...

Back in Esquel I was absolutel useless. The only thing I managed to do was a bike trip around Laguna Zeta, but that was astounishing was well as a good workout.

Neither climbing nor rafting on the world-famous Futalefu came true as I waited up on some people who said they were going but never went. So, time to change location.