061014 - 100 days on the road, ARG

Literally! It's been 100days that I left home and started my little trip. It's been an amazing ride so far. Some letdown, of course -- the jacket, that got stolen on the bus from Iguazu to Rio; the not getting cash for nearly two weeks... but other than that it has been GREAT! I hope, the next 100 days will be as "¡ genial !" as the first ones.

061012 - Esteros de Iberá, ARG

It was about time to get going. Another day in Mercedes and I would have climbed up the walls. So I bought a ticket to Pelligrini, the next town in the National Park called Esteros de Iberá, the wetlands. The big attraction in the region and one of the "to-do-things" when in Argentinia. It was amazing. Wildlife to the max. I cannot recall all the names of all the animals and birds I saw. From monkeys to deer to caymans... to one animal which belongs to the group of rats, and therefore is know as the biggest rat on the planet. They make a funny noise, almost barking! See for yourself...

This boat tour was on Friday morning. I got burned pretty bad. But still wasn't finished. In the afternoon I went for a little horse ride. Well, I knew before horses aren't really my thing. I mean, it was alright. But they just don't do what I want them to. I guess, when it comes down to making a choice I would be always choosing a motorbike. ;o)

When I was in Pelligrini I had lunch, dinner and almost breakfast at the best place in town. A very friendly woman and her husband Jorge who opened up a Comedor around March. Right now they are constructing their own place cause they are only renting the current location. So, if you're ever in town, ask for Jorge and his wife. It is the S***!

061010 - Mercedes, ARG

I saw a few of them on the way from Posadas to Paso de los Libres along the road on the back of a horse. One or two even got on the bus, but I still tought that it'd be quite rare that men dress up like that. And then in Mercedes I saw even more of them. Everywhere! But I was too afraid to ask to take a picture of one of them in their traditional wear: Gauchos. It is hard to describe, but very impressive to see.

Mercedes itself is another very tranquil town. The hostal is only a few blocks of the main square. But not much is happening around here. Most people just sit outside and watch life unfold. Kids cruising around on small scooter motorbikes which make an aweful loud noise. It's more about how loud your ride is rather than how much horsepower it has. For the next two days I just blend in... and get used to the slow rhythm. All stores, from super markets to even the little kiosks close for siesta between 12:30pm and 4pm.

061009 - Loosing a day due to bad planning, ARG

Ah... finally, it's Monday. Getting up early and over to the laundry man to pick up my clothes - and off course they're still not done. Well, I show up ten minutes later, pick them up and hurry over to the bus stop. With my big packapck I jump on the local bus that takes me to the bus station and cause a little bit of trouble for the people cause the bag is blocking a bit of the way. Well, at the terminal I am being told that the next bus to Paso de los Libres doesn't leave before 11:30am (it is 10am). Which is not too bad. Bad news hits me when they tell me, that there I'd have a lay-over of about 10hours. Great! Kramer, next time you'd better go check out the times beforehand. Could have used this day to go to Trinidad to check out some more Jesuit ruins. It is not that I am overly fond of ruins, but at least i'd had done something more senseful but being stuck in the middle of nowhere. Guess, sometimes you loose.. sometimes the other's win. ;-)

To Mercedes, my final destination, I get around 2:30am. A short walk from the bus terminal I find my "home" for the next couple of days and fall asleep exhausted .

061007 - Posadas, ARG

As I make it to the center of town where the hotel is located I see a fellow German traveller trying to find the way to his hotel. Why do I know this? Well, he is holding the "Reise Know-How" in his hands, the German version of the Lonely Planet. Two minutes after I checked-in to the hotel he steps in. As there are no dormitorios and each room has at least 2 beds I ask him if he'd mind to share a room. Even though we only just met. But no problem. Great!

Posadas is a very tranquil town and it doesn't appear at all to be having 250,000 people. The center of town is pretty nice, many shops, ice-cream bars and restaurants. I could like it here.

The night we rock a pub close to our hotel. No idea what it was called. But it rocked pretty hard. And the owner of the club gave us a nice chat. Rock on!

061006 - San Ignacio, ARG

After Rocio left on Thursday, I spend the day hanging around the hostal as it was pouring cats and dogs. Finally, on Friday morning, I checked-out and was on my way to San Ignacio. It is one of more than 30 Jesuit reductions located in the region of Misiones, ARG, Paraguay and Brazil. According to different soures, San Ignacio Miní is probably the best-restored and most well-preserved of the misions. Many buildings have been restored and gice a good idea of the former layout, even though all buildings are roofless. Most impressive is by far the big church which still holds significant portions of the carved stone decoration.

061004 - Iguazu Waterfalls Argentinian Side, ARG

From my point of view a lot better than the Brazilian side. Well, it is different...

061003 - Itaipu Dam, BRA

We get up more or less early as we need to check out of the hotel by 10am. Rocio tries to extend her sleeping time to the max as she finally breaks out of her doze at around 9:45am and intends to get ready in no time. But as women are (sorry, it is a fact) they just need their time in the bathroom. But it doesn't really matter. 10am or 10:30am. Who gives a damn? This is South America... Nothing is ever on time. Well, except some bus companies.
I sneak more or less unseen out of the hotel as I didn't really check-in in the first place. Rocio, as she was giving a double, invited me over last night, which was more convienent as we wanted to change to a different hostal that was just 1.5km down the highway from her hotel instead of 5 from my inital place. But as I said earlier, nobody really cared.
After we check-in at the Hostel-Inn Iguazu, a great place I had already stayed at, we lazed around for a few hours. Then we decided to go across the border to visit the Itaipu Dam, of whom they say it is "one of the 7 wonders of the modern world". And I have to admit: it is pretty big.
Took awhile to get there, though. I didn't really have a clou where it was. And so I had to keep annoying the bus driver of letting me know where to get off. By the time we got there it was already3:15pm. The last visit was due at 4pm. We watched a video beforehand. And then got on the bus. This thing was so crowded with tourists that we almost couldn't find a place to sit. No! Just kidding. In fact, in the bus , suitable for 56people, was a total amount of 4 visitors! 4!!! Well, good for us, I'd say. More space to fool around. *hehehe*
Back in Foz do Iguazu Rocio made me try some traditional Brazilian dish. Pictures say more than words. Just see for yourself what I think of the meal...

061002 - Iguazu, ARG

After yet another long bus ride I arrive at around 3pm in Iguazu and check into the Hostal Iguazu Falls, located just two blocks away from the bus terminal. As Rocio, my Panamanian friend I am supposed to meet and the reason for my fast return to this city, is still on a tour to the brazilian side of the Iguazu Falls, I ring her hotel and leave a message. Time passes by. And nothing from Rocio... I stroll around town. And give it another try. It is already 5:30pm. Rocio still isn't back from the tour. I tell the recepcionist to leave her a message and have her call me back. But nothing happens. 6:30pm. 9pm. That is impossible. And I am starting to wonder what happend to her. So at about 9:30 I ring the hotel again. To my surprise the guy tells me that Rocio has left. She went to look for me at my hostel. But since there are two hostels whose names are a lot alike I try to find out to which place she went. But the guy is just a total mess-up. He cannot give me any help, whatsoever. So I go back to my place.
On the way there I hear my name being yelled out: "Thomas!" I wonder... that was a guy! How weird is that! Then again. This time, it is a female voice, though. And yes -- it is Rocio! Finally! We managed to hook up. Just about time. ;o)
We spend the evening in a very nice restaurant, enjoy a great wine and chat for a few hours before we return to our places.

060815 - Hamster's Farewell Party, BOL

060811 - Tarija, BOL

We arrive in Tarija around 11am. The family who Hamster is staying with lives only a few blocks withing walking distance from the bus terminal. As we get there the younger brother (Gustavo) opens the door and gives a big welcome. Also, his host dad is there. Later the older son and Hamster's host mom come home. They make me feel as much welcome as Hamster. All together we enjoy a great lunch and talk about our travelling experiences. As lunch is over we rest a bit and Hamster is planning the evening activities.
...

060810 - The weirdest on-the-bus-experience ever, BOL

Well, we leave La Paz around 3pm. It's gonna be a long ride to Tarija, appr. 21hours. The bus is pretty much crowded. Across the aisle there are two empty seats. Hamster and I are speculating on them. But we still have to wait cause we keep picking up people all over La Paz. As we leave town an old guy, who was sitting in the back, moves to these places. About 2hours later we hear him opening his belt. Well... Then he stands up; it's a little fellow. About 1,60m, I would guess. He pulls out a plastic bag --- and starts ing in it. As his business his finished he throws the bag out of the window. And now the cerimonical cleaning procedure begins: He starts washing his entire body with some baby lotion. The whole bus soaks up this smell. I just want to get out.
Guess, I am not sitting on these seats as he goes back to his original seat. ;o)

060809 - On the way to Tarija, BOL

WHERE AM I?? I wake up with the biggest head and do not know where I am. I find myself riding on the bus. The Hamster sitting next to me. My breath smells like . We are on the way to Bolivia. I have no idea how I got here. But that doesn't matter. Thanx, Hamster, for taking care of me.

060808 - Arequipa, PER

We leave Chivay around 10am to go back to Arequipa and get there fairly early. We only want to stay for one night because we have to be back in Tarija for Hamster's Big Farewell Party on Friday. So we're looking for a nice place near the terminal. The recommended hostal is booked out but we find a cool alternative. As the lady explains 20 Soles for a room without TV and 25 for one with TV my eyes just pop. Hamster knows what that means... So we check into the TV room. And instead of heading out exploring the city we end up watching two movies. In between I run down to the chicken man, get two meals and we continue watching movies in the magic box.
Later that night we finally get out and see a bit of the city. But it is already dark. And since there is nothing else to do we just go out partying...
Overnight stay at: ???

060807 - Off to The Mirador and Chivay, PER

We rise and shine shortly after sunrise cause it is best to get to the Mirador early before the big groups of day tourists get there. Anxiously we wait to get on the bus. But funnily everybody is lining up in the middle of the street. I am raising an eyebrow because the bus stands right on the plaza. But then the miracle is solve. The bus makes a spin around the plaza. And, indeed, stopps where the people stand. Everybody gets on. Literally everybody. Tourists ad local people, we want to sell their stuff at the Mirador. It is only a short ride.
At the Mirador we don't see anything. Nothing. We wait. Wait. ... And wait a bit more. But around 9am, as the warm air rises from the canyon, the condors emerge and slowly rise above our heads. Impressive. They leave everybody with an "awe"... Some even start screaming in excitement. Man, I know it is pretty cool to see. But this much... ? ;o)
Well, the next bus comes. And we have to get on. But no tickets! So we are the last ones on. But we made it. Only place left is up front on the dashboard. And there is still more people wanting to get on at every busstop. I end up being stuck between all these little peruvians. But it's fun. The busdriver asks me if my eyes are actually the way they are or if I had them painted. And as the batteries in his discman get empty, I connect my I-Pod to his stereo and be the DJ to entertain the bus. Pretty fun ride.
Overnight stay at: Rumi Wasi. Nice patio. But breakfast is louzy.

060806 - Cabanaconde, PER

After a few very exhausting days in Cuzco we leave town late on the 5th to go with an overnight bus to Arequipa where we get to early in the morning. At 5am the bus terminal seems already quite busy and the only spot we find to sit is directly in front of a woman who continually screams out the destination to which her bus company would go to at 5:30am. Puh!! That was probably the most annoying voice I have ever heard. But we don't want to stay long there and try to figure out how we possibly can go to the Colca Canyon.

The Colca Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the US. Near the end of the canyon is the Mirador, or Cruz del Cóndor, where you can see these gigantic birds. That is our destination for the day.

We find out that we have to go to a different terminal and take two buses to get to Cabanaconde. A few hours later, as we get there, I am exhausted as hell. Dirtroads. Crowded buses. Strange smell coming from under the seat. But I am feeling better than the Hamster who seems to get sick again. So first thing we do is taking a rest. And since there is not much to do because the few bikes the owner has are for maintanance reasons in Arequipa and he is the only one renting out bikes in Cabanaconde, we just hang out.
Overnight stay at: Hostal Valle del Fuego; basic, with private bath and hot shower; very friendly owner; kinda alternative feeling